Straight Line

It’s Called Shredding

Basecamping in BC’s Valhalla Range

Miles Wallace looks out at a real-life Valhalla.

“Watch out for the rugged nuggets,” our guide, Josh, called up on the radio. 

If it was run one, we might have hesitated. But it was almost the end of two full days of skiing at Baldface Valhalla, and after countless techy descents through tight, steep trees, our group was unfazed. 

“You might be better off going left,” Josh called back up again.

We dropped two at a time, snaking through tight tree alleys, trending left until the pitch opened up into soft, wind-packed powder, dotted with snow-laden rocks to pop off. The North Face athletes Emily Childs and Janelle Yip turned a few unsuspecting features into graceful airs. When you start with “rugged nuggets,” expectations are surely going to be exceeded. A few whoops and hollers later, and the hum of the snowcat filled the air. We popped our skis off and climbed back aboard. 

TNF’s Janelle Yip hunting for soft turns.

British Columbia had had a strong start to winter, with consistent snowfall right up until early January. Our group of 30 writers, photographers, athletes and industry friends arrived in Nelson, BC for The North Face Summit Snow Basecamp during a prolonged dry spell—no significant snowfall for weeks, plus a major wind event the day before we arrived. In many places, I’d expect a significant shift in attitude towards skiing. But not here. If there were even a few centimeters of fresh snow lingering, the Baldface Valhalla guide team was determined to find it.  

Like many skiers, just hearing the word ‘Valhalla’ immediately sends my brain straight to the dreamy and nostalgic scenes of the 2013 Sweetgrass Productions film, shot mostly right outside Nelson. The world itself comes from Norse mythology, a mythical location where Vikings killed in battle go in the afterlife—warrior’s heaven. Staring out at the endless peaks and ridges packed with chutes and long, sustained fall lines, it certainly feels like an accurate depiction. 

Nelson is the jumping off point for both Baldface Lodge and Baldface Valhalla, which together boast over 50,000 acres of terrain between the two subranges of the Selkirk Mountains. Though only some 40 miles apart as the crow flies, the two operations feature two very different vibes. Founded and run by Jeff Pensiero, the Lodge has been in operation since 2002, by far the more lux option with a restaurant, bar, sauna and individual lodges and suites. Baldface purchased the Valhalla tenure just before the Covid-19 pandemic, previously Valhalla Powdercats, and started running Baldface Valhalla in the fall of 2021. The terrain offers a step up for those seeking steeper, more featured lines, including more options in the alpine. No lodge, no sauna—just a healthy dose of raw topography. 

Despite no significant snowfall in weeks, soft pockets are always lingering in the trees.

Baldface is snowboarder-owned and founded, which easily explains why all the snowboarders in my life knew exactly where we were headed on this trip. It also explains the ambiguous language around downhill movement that takes place here at Baldface. During the pre-trip online orientation, there’s not one mention of “skiing” in any of the materials. Downhill sliding, whether on skis or a board, is referred to only as “shredding,” a speech pattern observed diligently by guides and cat drivers. 

“Skier’s right” became “shredder’s right,” and so on. Once it gets in your head it’s hard to shake. And while perhaps a little generous in some cases (I did not feel like I was shredding while getting tossed through some rugged nuggets), it’s hard to argue with the inclusive nature of the term. All said and done, “shredding” on skis proved to be an excellent way to experience the steep and cliffy terrain the Valhallas have to offer.

Kendall Zylstra finding some air time.

There’s no lodge in the Valhalla tenure (yet), but for now they run day trips from Nelson, about an hour from the cat staging area. Luckily, we enjoyed a third option—basecamping with The North Face crew right in the heart of all the action. 

After dozens of laps in countless different drainages, we popped back up over the ridge we arrived from. A village of bright yellow tents peppered the valley 1,000 feet below, and steam billowed up from a freshly lit bonfire. We bombed down to the open valley below and skied right to the front door of our tents. One of the best parts of any multi-day ski adventure is that when the sun starts to fade, you don’t have to go home. Our evening was just getting started. 

Thirty new friends quickly turned our snowy campsite into a proper party. Après tomato soup was cranking, a snow surfing contingent hiked off into the woods and a sculpted snow bar churned out drinks. We gathered around two roaring fires, refilling our cups with tea and whisky, while the sky melted into a soft rosy glow. 

Spending any prolonged time in the mountains allows you to get to know the people around you better than any corporate icebreaker. When we’d arrived in Nelson just 48 hours prior, most of our group were strangers. But all it takes is some time off the grid to make you feel like you’ve known the folks around you for years. There’s no reflexive phone checking or wondering what’s going on in the outside world. Just good old fashioned campfire conversation under a starry night sky. 

Home for the night. The best kind of ski days are the ones where you don’t have to go home.

TNF rider Austin Smith enjoying a slow roll in the morning.

Dropping into basecamp on the last run of the day.

Lily and Max Ritter pack up after a cold night in the Valhallas. Anything is possible in a Himalayan suit.

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