Mount Cain

Feral Kindness at Vancouver Island’s Church of Snow

Flush toilets are coming to Mount Cain.

While this is something most resorts wouldn’t even bother mentioning, it’s a big deal at the little ski hill on British Columbia’s Vancouver Island.

Most resorts wouldn’t list running water as an amenity either. That arrived at Cain in the early 1990s. Internet showed up in 2006.

Driving along Highway 19, two lonely hours northwest of Campbell River, the only sign for the Mount Cain turnoff is a small, spray-painted piece of plywood. The following dirt road is equally unassuming, a logging grade that climbs through the forests near Schoen Lake National Park. It’s a 30-to-50-minute drive, navigating between potholes and washboard. Or through door-deep snow, depending on the midweek weather. Mount Cain is open only on weekends, and it can stack up…

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